With the allure of long hours of CD-listening in that blessed bedroom, I rarely travelled. When I did, I missed my connection from Amsterdam to Prague, hindered by a hole in my left cowboy boot. I found my way back to Berlin by train. 11PM, Elfi was watching television, and Lilly was hoola-hooping for exercise. They made me a chickpea and rice dish. "Fühlen sie die umarmung,” or “feel the embrace” they said...and that I did. The homeliness of a home not my own.
Nearing the end of my months in Berlin, Elfi marked the calendar with “Alex Foto.” I had often perused her photo archive, revering the way she suspended time. Tableaus of old German filmstars, and details as simple and overlooked as the nimble bending of a flamenco dancer’s toes. She somehow respects both the grandiose and the world unseen.
Before my last sleep in Berlin, Elfi told me to dream about jewels.
“The idea, I want you to look through your jewelry, thinking about the stories. Occasionally, you will look at me and tell me what you are thinking. Sometimes I will say ‘Stop!’ And you will look at the camera. In this way, we have a communication.”
She brought me chocolate chunks on a heart shaped plate. “Power, for you” she said. I do not remember if I looked beautiful, or if my hair fell just right. I do know that her understanding of me brought to tears. The experience felt somewhat religious. When we finished our photoshoot, Elfi let me take one photo of her. The scene is a snowglobe on my bedside table that I shake to animate for momentary joy.
Gazing at the sweater I wore in the images, Elfi exclaimed, “This is your second skin! We call these photos the second skin.”
A second skin is the transparent barrier placed over a tattoo that protects from dirt and infection. It is a barely-there layer that allows what’s underneath to be seen, but to breathe and render, all while making it indellible. I believe we all have a ‘second skin,’ and when I say this I envision Joan of Arc’s armor, or an abalone’s irridescent shell. Mine may be as simple as a knit sweater coated in the scent of a loving home.
As a parting gift to Lilly and Elfi, I set out to print a cyanotype of my favorite Goltzẞtrase relics. A cyanotype is made by placing objects or images on a light sensitive surface.
When exposed to sunlight, blue impressions of their shapes are left behind. The Berlin winter sky only revealed teal blobs where images would have been. I was not proud of it and I refused for it to be our parting gift. I decided to keep it and wear it in my hair. I told Elfi and Lilly I will return in Berlin summer, when the sunshine makes my gift.
On the topic of sky Lilly wrote a farewell to me, tucked into the inside pocket of my painter’s jacket. She wrote “Himmel verbinden uns,” or The Sky connects us.
I found the interior after travelling across the ocean.
And I did like the rhythm of the music, and the bounty of beer, and the speed of the UBahn and the clever designs of the various stations, and the faces in museum paintings, and it was not lost on me the way the monuments struck a chord. It might have been their love for pumpkin soup, or the cat named Pipsi they called “Soul with Ears.” Or that when I was sick, they gave me white desert sage to put under my tongue; a flavor unexpected as rain on skin.